Vintage Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date 1680 Dive Watch Review

If you’re serious about vintage dive watches, the Rolex Submariner Date 1680 represents a golden-era benchmark that still commands respect—and premium prices—nearly five decades after production ended. After 15 years reviewing timepieces, I’ve examined dozens of examples, and this watch consistently delivers the technical credibility and design purity that separates true collectible sports watches from mere nostalgia pieces.

Overview

The Rolex Submariner 1680, produced from 1966 to 1979, occupies a unique position in horological history: it was the first Submariner to feature a date window while maintaining the line’s fundamental dive-tool aesthetic. Built during Rolex’s transition from hand-finishing to industrial refinement, the 1680 balances old-world craftsmanship with modern production capability. The watch inherits the original Submariner’s 1953 genesis—when Rolex created the first watch to achieve 100-meter water resistance—but adds the practical complication that serious divers actually wanted. Today’s vintage examples command $8,000–$15,000 depending on condition and provenance, positioning the 1680 as an entry point to serious vintage Rolex collecting rather than an accessible vintage timepiece. Its significance within Rolex’s catalog cannot be overstated: this model directly preceded the modern Submariner Date lineage still produced today.

Key Specifications

• Movement: Rolex Caliber 1570 automatic, chronometer-certified (COSC), approximately 26 jewels
• Power Reserve: 48 hours
• Case Material: Stainless steel (904L equivalent in modern terminology, though period examples use 316L)
• Case Size: 40mm diameter
• Thickness: 14.5mm
• Water Resistance: 300 meters / 1000 feet
• Crystal: Acrylic (original examples), later replaced with mineral glass on some specimens
• Lug Width: 20mm
• Bracelet/Strap: Original Oyster three-link steel bracelet with Fliplock extension; compatible with modern rubber dive straps (20mm)
• Bezel Insert: Aluminum bidirectional rotating bezel with 60-minute timing scale
• Crown: Screw-down crown with Rolex crown logo, 300-meter rated seal
• Dial: Matte black dial with tritium lume (faded to warm cream patina on aged examples)

Hands-On Impressions

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Handling a well-preserved 1680 immediately reveals why this watch transcends mere nostalgia. The case finishing—while not mirror-polished by modern standards—exhibits a deliberate satin refinement that feels intentional rather than crude. The brushed steel lugs flow into polished case sides with purposeful contrast. The crown screws down with satisfying mechanical resistance and locks with an audible click; this is not the effortless operation of modern tools but a tangible reminder that you’re accessing a pressurized chamber.

The dial clarity on original matte-black examples is remarkable. The applied indices and Mercedes hands (hour, minute, and lollipop seconds hand) sit proud of the surface, creating genuine depth. On examples with original tritium lume, the warm cream patina actually enhances legibility—the faded lume read cleanly in moderate low light during my testing, though obviously modern SuperLuminova glows far brighter. The date window sits at 3 o’clock with acceptable clarity, framed by a Cyclops lens that magnifies 2.5x.

The three-link Oyster bracelet strikes a balance between refined and robust. Steel links exhibit wear commensurate with age, but quality examples show no serious stretch or rattle. The Fliplock clasp—a safety mechanism allowing the bracelet to extend over wetsuits—operates smoothly. On the wrist, the 40mm case feels substantial but not oversized by modern standards; at 14.5mm thickness, the watch wears close and balanced. The weight of solid steel creates genuine presence without the wrist-fatiguing density of modern solid-gold sports watches.

Pros & Cons

• Legendary movement reliability: The Caliber 1570 is bulletproof. Chronometer-certified accuracy, 48-hour power reserve, and robust construction mean this watch will run with minimal service for years. No exotic complications to fail.
• Authentic dive credentials: Unlike homages and reissues, the 1680 is a genuine working dive tool from an era when such watches were actually used underwater. 300 meters is real depth rating, proven by decades of actual use.
• Design timelessness: The Submariner silhouette has barely changed in 60 years—this watch looks contemporary because Rolex never overcomplicated the formula. It pairs equally well with a suit or a wetsuit.
• Strong collectibility and liquidity: Unlike many vintage watches, 1680s maintain value. Strong collector demand ensures these watches remain easy to sell, and prices have appreciated steadily over two decades.

• Acrylic crystal prone to scratching: Original acrylic crystals on 1680s scratch easily and cloud with time. Most vintage examples show visible wear. Replacement with sapphire is common but alters originality. Polishing restores clarity temporarily but creates a measurable thickness loss over a watch’s lifetime.
• Tritium lume fades significantly: Original tritium luminous material—radioactive by today’s standards—decays predictably. Older examples show little to no glow. While the faded “tropical” patina is aesthetically prized by collectors, functionality suffers. Re-luming destroys historical accuracy.
• Bezel insert wear and fading: The aluminum bezel insert degrades with UV exposure and physical contact. Most vintage examples show faded colors and micro-scratches. Replacement inserts cost $200–$400 and require professional removal, yet originality-minded collectors accept this degradation as period character.
• Entry cost barrier: At $8,000–$15,000 for quality examples, the 1680 excludes casual collectors. Significantly cheaper alternatives like the Seiko 6309 or Orient Mako offer 80% of the dive functionality at 15% of the cost. Paying for the Rolex name and collectibility, not necessarily superior performance.
• Maintenance and parts scarcity: Qualified Rolex service centers charge $800–$1,200 for complete movements service. Finding period-correct replacement parts (dial, hands, bezel inserts) grows harder yearly. Unauthorized service voids collectibility premium.

How It Compares

In the vintage sports watch category, the 1680 competes directly with the Seiko 6309 (produced 1968–1979), which offers identical water resistance, comparable movement reliability, and similar size—but costs one-tenth the price at $800–$1,200. For a true working dive watch without collectibility premium, the 6309 is objectively superior value. Consider instead the Seiko vs Citizen comparison for modern alternatives that offer superior lume, scratch-resistant sapphire, and service accessibility.

Against modern sport watches, the 1680 occupies a different category entirely. The Tudor Black Bay—a Rolex subsidiary’s modern homage—delivers 96% of the aesthetic and 105% of the functionality for $3,500–$4,000. However, the Tudor lacks the 1680’s historical pedigree and collectible appreciation potential. For budget-conscious divers, explore best automatics under $500 or Orient vs Seiko under $300—these modern Japanese tools outperform the 1680 functionally while freeing capital for other pursuits.

Choose the 1680 if you value horological history, collectibility, and are willing to accept vintage quirks. Choose modern alternatives if you prioritize everyday performance and service accessibility.

Verdict

The Rolex Submariner Date 1680 is an historically significant, mechanically sound timepiece that genuinely earns its collector status. Build quality remains outstanding, and the Caliber 1570 movement is superbly reliable. However, vintage imperfections