Rolex Submariner 1680 Review

The Rolex Submariner 1680 is arguably the most historically significant dive watch ever produced, and after 15 years reviewing timepieces across every price tier, I can confidently say it remains a benchmark for vintage sports watch excellence. This article examines the 1680 with unvarnished honesty—covering its legendary strengths alongside real limitations modern buyers should understand before investing in one of horology’s most coveted instruments.

Overview

The Rolex Submariner 1680, produced from 1966 to 1979, represents the evolutionary pinnacle of the original Submariner line and holds an almost mythical status within watch collecting circles. Introduced after the iconic 5513, the 1680 was the first Submariner to feature a date window—a functional upgrade that solidified the model’s appeal to working divers and casual enthusiasts alike. This watch embodies Rolex’s heritage of creating tool watches that transcend their original purpose, becoming cultural icons and investment-grade timepieces. The 1680 sits at the intersection of vintage charm and proven reliability, making it the gateway watch for many serious collectors entering the vintage Rolex market. Its presence in the pre-owned market has made it more accessible than earlier references, though prices have climbed steadily as desirability continues to outpace supply.

Key Specifications

• Movement: Caliber 1570 (automatic, 26-jewel, founded on the 1560 base)
• Case Diameter: 40mm (without crown)
• Case Thickness: 14.5mm
• Lug-to-Lug Distance: Approximately 48mm
• Water Resistance: 4,000 feet (1,220 meters) — depth-rated for professional saturation diving
• Case Material: Stainless steel (904L not yet standard; earlier examples used 316L)
• Crystal: Acrylic (hesalite) with cyclops magnification over date window
• Bezel Insert: Aluminum with luminous pip at 12 o’clock; unidirectional rotation with 60-minute timing scale
• Dial: Matte black with applied Mercedes-style hour markers; printed dial variants exist
• Lume: Tritium (vintage examples; radioactive, now-dim patina characteristic of the era)
• Crown: Screw-down, oversized (guard-less design)
• Bracelet/Strap: Oyster steel bracelet with solid end links; 20mm lug width
• Clasp: Oyster fold-over clasp with flip-lock safety mechanism
• Power Reserve: Approximately 48 hours

Hands-On Impressions

🛒 Check Price on Amazon

Handling a well-preserved 1680 immediately communicates why this watch achieved legendary status. The case finishing, while not reaching modern Rolex standards, displays that purposeful, tool-watch aesthetic—brushed surfaces with polished bevels that showcase age gracefully. The matte black dial exhibits exceptional legibility, with Mercedes-hand design and applied indices that catch light distinctly. Lume, naturally, is dim to non-existent on most examples (tritium decay), though this patina tells the watch’s story authentically.

The screw-down crown feels substantial and operates smoothly, though modern crowns are decidedly more refined. Winding the 1570 caliber produces that mechanical feedback enthusiasts crave—predictable, responsive, unhurried. The acrylic hesalite crystal, prone to scratching, lends a vintage warmth that sapphire lacks; many collectors resist refinishing it for this reason. On the wrist at 40mm and 14.5mm thick, the 1680 wears remarkably balanced—substantial without oppressive heft. The Oyster bracelet, with its solid end links and articulate center links, feels robust; however, slack between links is often present on older examples, creating a slightly loose rattle absent in modern production. This is cosmetic rather than functional, but worth acknowledging. The 48mm lug-to-lug accommodates wrists 6.5 inches and larger comfortably.

Pros & Cons

• Legendary movement reliability: The caliber 1570 has proven its durability across decades, with countless examples still running strong. Service intervals are well-documented, and parts remain available.
• Historical significance and investment potential: The 1680 is tangible horological history. Pre-owned examples have appreciated substantially, and demand remains robust among collectors.
• Exceptional tool-watch design: The proportions, legibility, and functional bezel remain unsurpassed in dive watch design. Rolex got nearly everything right on the first major iteration.
• Genuine patina and character: Unlike modern reissues, every example carries authentic aging—tritium lume glow (or dim), crystal scratches, case friction marks—that cannot be manufactured.

• Tritium lume is essentially non-functional: By modern standards, lume visibility is negligible. Dial refinishing or relume work increases cost and debate among purists regarding authenticity.
• Acrylic crystal scratches easily and requires frequent polishing: While some embrace this, repeated refinishing eventually reduces crystal thickness and clarity. This is an ongoing maintenance cost.
• Bracelet wear and looseness are common: Decades of use often result in slack links, stretched rivets, and clasp fatigue. A full bracelet service or replacement can exceed $1,000–$2,500.
• Caliber 1570 service costs are climbing: While parts exist, competent vintage movement servicing now runs $800–$1,500, with some watchmakers charging premium rates for Rolex work.
• Authentication challenges in pre-owned market: The 1680’s legendary status has invited counterfeits and Frankenwatches (mixed parts from multiple examples). Provenance and full serial documentation are essential.

How It Compares

Direct competitors in the vintage dive watch space include the Rolex Submariner 5513 (earlier, no-date alternative), the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms (contemporary professional standard), and modern homages like the Tudor Black Bay. The 5513, slightly earlier and without date, commands higher prices due to rarity, though the 1680 offers practical date functionality. The Fifty Fathoms, while exquisite, remains scarcer and more expensive. For budget-conscious collectors, explore our guides on Seiko vs Citizen comparison and best automatics under $500 to understand how modern, affordable alternatives approach similar design language. Alternatively, our Orient vs Seiko under $300 comparison illustrates exceptional value in contemporary tool watches. The 1680 justifies its premium through investment potential and historical credentials, but modern alternatives offer superior lume, crystal durability, and lower maintenance costs for a fraction of the price.

Verdict

Rating: 8.5/10

The Rolex Submariner 1680 is an authentic masterpiece—a watch that shaped the industry and remains functionally capable decades later. However, it is fundamentally a 50+ year-old instrument requiring realistic expectations about maintenance, patina, and cost of ownership. At this price (typically $8,000–$15,000 for good examples), it competes with high-end modern sports watches, neo-vintage homages, and early Seiko divers. Buy it for historical significance, investment potential, and the intangible satisfaction of owning horology’s most influential dive watch. Buy it with eyes open to its limitations.