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The Seiko SKX173 remains one of the most compelling dive watches in the sub-$200 category, offering a remarkable combination of build quality, heritage, and practical functionality that punches well above its price point. Released as part of Seiko’s legendary SKX line, this model has become a staple in the collections of professional divers and casual enthusiasts alike. In 2025, with the watch market increasingly crowded at every price tier, the SKX173 deserves fresh scrutiny to determine whether it still delivers the value proposition that made it famous.

Is the SKX173 Worth Buying?

The short answer is yes—but with important caveats we’ll explore throughout this review. The SKX173 represents genuine watchmaking competence at an accessible price. Seiko didn’t cut corners where it matters: the movement is robust, the case construction is solid, and the dial legibility is exceptional. However, “worth it” depends entirely on your expectations and what you’ll actually use the watch for.

If you’re seeking a starter dive watch with authentic credentials—a timepiece that will work reliably whether you’re in a swimming pool or on a wrist at a casual Friday dinner—the SKX173 delivers. The real question isn’t whether the watch is good. It’s whether it’s good for you.

How Does the SKX173 Compare to Competitors?

At approximately $180-$220 retail, the SKX173 competes most directly with the Orient Mako II ($150-$200) and the Citizen Promaster NY0040 ($200-$250).

Against the Orient Mako II, the SKX173 offers superior case finishing and a more refined dial presentation, though both feature nearly identical specifications: 42mm cases, 200M water resistance, and automatic movements. The Mako II edges ahead in bracelet quality and comfort straight from the box, while the SKX173’s vintage aesthetic appeals more to traditionalists. The Seiko’s 7S26 movement is simpler than the Orient’s caliber F6922, making the Seiko slightly more bulletproof for rough handling.

Compared to the Citizen Promaster, the SKX173 is the sportier, more aggressive option. The Citizen prioritizes comfort and wearability for all-day use; the Seiko emphasizes tool-watch aesthetics. The Citizen’s Eco-Drive movement eliminates battery concerns forever, which is genuinely valuable. However, the SKX173’s mechanical movement appeals to purists who prefer traditional horology.

The SKX173 doesn’t try to beat these competitors on features—it competes on character and proven durability.

Movement Specifications and Performance

The SKX173 houses Seiko’s 7S26 automatic movement, a workhorse caliber that has powered countless field watches since its introduction in 1996. This is no sophisticated movement: it beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour, offers approximately 41 hours of power reserve, and maintains accuracy within -20/+40 seconds per day. These aren’t tight tolerances by high-end standards, but they’re completely acceptable for a tool watch.

The 7S26’s real advantage is its proven reliability. Seiko manufactured millions of examples. Service parts are widely available and inexpensive. The movement is simple enough that competent watchmakers worldwide can service it without proprietary tools or training. This practical serviceability matters significantly if you plan to keep the watch for decades.

Case Construction and Dial Options

The SKX173 features a robust 42mm stainless steel case with a screw-down crown and unidirectional rotating bezel—essential features for any legitimate diver’s watch. Case finishing is respectable: brushed surfaces with polished bevels create visual interest without feeling cheap. The case measures 13.6mm thick, making it slightly chunky but proportionate on wrists larger than 6.5 inches.

The dial presents the classic SKX aesthetic: applied indices, Mercedes-style hands, and a date window at 3 o’clock. The SKX173 specifically features a matte navy-black dial that photographs exceptionally well and delivers outstanding legibility underwater or in low light. The dial text is crisp; the lume on hands and indices is bright and long-lasting. Some versions feature a sunburst finish, which is equally excellent.

Bracelet, Strap Options, and Water Resistance

The stock bracelet is a significant weakness. Seiko includes a solid three-link bracelet that works functionally but feels thin and somewhat hollow compared to watches costing twice as much. The end links fit perfectly, and the clasp is secure, but the overall experience is utilitarian rather than refined. Most SKX173 owners immediately invest in third-party bracelets or swap to fabric NATO straps—a reality Seiko seems to understand by now.

The 20mm lug width accommodates virtually any strap on the market, making customization trivially easy. The watch genuinely transforms personality when paired with a quality leather strap or braided fabric option. This modularity is secretly one of the SKX173’s strongest qualities.

Water resistance is rated at 200 meters, adequate for recreational diving and absolutely sufficient for snorkeling, swimming, and shower wear. The screw-down crown and gaskets are engineering highlights that ensure genuine reliability at depth.

What Most Reviews Miss About the SKX173

Nearly every review mentions the “incredible value,” but few discuss what the SKX173 actually reveals about watch design philosophy. This watch is deliberately modest. Seiko could easily charge $350 for the SKX173 by adding a display caseback, increasing lume application, or upgrading to a newer movement. Instead, Seiko chose a straightforward, honest design that prioritizes durability over apparent sophistication.

This philosophy is increasingly rare. The SKX173 doesn’t try to impress; it tries to work. That distinction matters more than spec sheets suggest.

Pros and Cons

Pros

• Legendary reliability: The 7S26 movement has earned its reputation through millions of units and decades of real-world service. This watch will outlast its owner with proper care.
• Authentic dive credentials: Unlike fashion watches mimicking dive aesthetics, the SKX173 actually functions as intended underwater with 200M rating and proper engineering.
• Exceptional modularity: The 20mm lug width and standard case construction mean countless strap and bracelet options exist, allowing complete personality customization.
• Superb legibility: The dial design prioritizes readability over ornamentation. At midnight on the ocean floor, legibility matters more than beauty.

Cons

• The bracelet is genuinely poor: For $200, competitors offer notably better steel bracelets. Most owners immediately replace it, which adds $50-$150 to total investment.
• Accuracy tolerance is loose: The -20/+40 second per day spec means regular adjustment is necessary. Modern movements perform significantly better at similar price points.
• No modern conveniences: No date quick-set, no hacking seconds, no exhibition caseback. These omissions are intentional but conspicuous in 2025.

Who Should Buy (and Skip) the SKX173

Buy if you:

• Want a genuine diver’s watch that actually works underwater
• Appreciate mechanical simplicity and long-term serviceability
• Plan to customize with alternative straps and bracelets
• Value proven reliability over impressive specifications

Skip if you:

• Expect premium bracelet quality without upgrades
• Require tight accuracy tolerances from the factory
• Prefer modern movements with additional functions
• Want a watch that arrives perfect and needs nothing else

Where to Buy and What to Pay

Authorized Seiko dealers maintain the official $200-$220 range, though competitive online retailers frequently offer $160-$180 pricing. Gray market channels sometimes discount further, though warranty coverage becomes questionable. For maximum peace of mind, purchase from established retailers offering Seiko’s standard two-year international warranty. Known issues are virtually nonexistent; the 7S26 is proven technology that simply works.

Verdict: 8/10

The Seiko SKX173 earns an 8 out of 10 because it delivers authentic value and functionality without pretense. It’s not revolutionary—it’s evolutionary,

Related Reviews: More Seiko Reviews | Seiko Diver Watches | Seiko Automatic Watches