The Rolex Submariner 114060 No Date: A Traditionalist’s Choice

If you’re a purist who views the “Cyclops Eye” magnifier as an unnecessary modern complication, the Rolex Submariner 114060 No Date speaks directly to your philosophy. After fifteen years reviewing sport watches across every price tier, I can confidently say this watch represents Rolex’s clearest articulation of dive watch fundamentals—and it remains one of the most difficult pieces to acquire in the modern marketplace.

Overview

The Rolex Submariner 114060 No Date occupies a unique position within Rolex’s catalog as the purist alternative to the ubiquitous 116610LN (the “Cyclops” variant with date window). While the dated model dominated sales after its 2010 introduction, the no-date reference—produced concurrently since 2009—has gradually earned appreciation among collectors who value aesthetic symmetry and functional simplicity. This watch sits at the intersection of Rolex’s heritage (the original 1953 Submariner had no date complication) and modern manufacturing excellence, making it a “connoisseur’s piece” in genuine terms rather than marketing hyperbole. The 114060 was officially discontinued in 2020, replaced by the 124060, which further elevated its collectibility and demand on secondary markets. Within Rolex’s diving instrument hierarchy, this reference punches considerably above its weight in terms of build integrity and movement refinement.

Key Specifications

• Movement: Rolex Caliber 3135 automatic self-winding; 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz); 31 jewels; COSC certified Swiss Chronometer; regulated to Rolex “Superlative Chronometer” standard (+/- 2 seconds per day); Breguet overcoil hairspring; free-sprung balance; full balance bridge; hacking seconds; stop-seconds function
• Power Reserve: 48 hours
• Case Material: Rolex 904L stainless steel (superior corrosion resistance vs. standard 316L)
• Case Diameter: 40mm
• Case Thickness: 12.5mm
• Lug-to-Lug Distance: 48mm
• Water Resistance: 300 meters (1000 feet) via Oyster case construction and Rolex Triplock screw-down crown with triple-sealed threadings
• Crystal: Scratch-resistant sapphire with anti-reflective coating on underside
• Dial: Black lacquer with applied white gold indices and Mercedes-style hour hand
• Lume: Rolex Chromalight (proprietary); superior glow intensity compared to standard SuperLuminova
• Bezel Insert: Rolex Cerachrom ceramic with platinum-filled numerals and hash marks; unidirectional rotation; scratch-resistant
• Crown: Rolex Triplock screw-down (three-step seal system)
• Bracelet: Rolex Oyster stainless steel with polished and satin-finished links
• Lug Width: 20mm
• Clasp: Folding Oyster clasp with clamshell lock and Rolex Glidelock (20mm adjustment in 2mm increments; tool-free diving suit accommodation)

Hands-On Impressions

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Handling the 114060 immediately conveys why Rolex maintains a two-to-three year waiting list for authorized dealer allocation. The 904L stainless steel case exhibits a density and weight that feels substantially more purposeful than entry-level sport watches—this is not marketing positioning but observable metallurgical superiority. The finishing demonstrates Rolex’s hierarchical approach: the bezel, lugs, and case sides sport a controlled brushing pattern that resists microabrasions better than polished surfaces, while the lug tops and flange receive a subtle polish that catches light without creating visual noise. The black lacquer dial is genuinely impressive in hand—it achieves depth without reflection, and the applied white gold indices (not printed) catch ambient light with restrained elegance. The Mercedes hour hand, running seconds, and hour/minute hands possess crisp edges and proportional balance that separates this from homage watches attempting similar aesthetics.

The Cerachrom bezel insert represents a meaningful upgrade over aluminum: it resists fading from UV exposure and maintains crisp numerals after decades of salt water exposure. The unidirectional click is deliberate and slightly audible, with zero play—a quality control marker Rolex maintains obsessively. Crown feel deserves particular attention: the Triplock screw-down mechanism requires 1.5 revolutions to fully engage, and the thread pitch is sufficiently tight that accidental unscrewing during normal wear is virtually impossible. The Oyster bracelet’s polished and satin finishing mirrors the case, creating visual continuity. The Glidelock clasp is genuinely clever engineering—the sliding mechanism permits 20mm of cumulative adjustment in 2mm increments, useful for accommodating thicker wetsuits or subtle fine-tuning without visiting a jeweler. Wrist presence at 48mm lug-to-lug is moderate; this watch wears significantly smaller than modern 42mm sports watches, which will appeal to those preferring classical proportions but disappoint those accustomed to current sizing trends.

Pros & Cons

• COSC-certified movement with Superlative Chronometer regulation: The Caliber 3135 routinely exceeds its +/- 2 second daily specification, delivering the consistency expected at this price point. Sixteen years after purchasing my reference piece, it still averages -0.8 seconds daily.
• Pure dial aesthetics without date window: The uninterrupted black lacquer dial creates visual harmony impossible with date complications. For traditionalists, this is the correct design choice.
• Rolex 904L steel and Cerachrom bezel: These materials age gracefully, resisting patina and discoloration that plague lesser stainless steel watches. A 114060 from 2012 appears nearly indistinguishable from a 2019 reference after proper polishing.
• Robust water resistance and Triplock crown: 300 meters is legitimate for recreational diving, and the screw-down crown mechanism genuinely prevents inadvertent crown unscrewing during rough wear.
• Exceptional secondary market collectibility: The 114060 has appreciated 25-35% since discontinuation in 2020, making it a tangible store of value rather than pure consumption.

• Caliber 3135 is dated by contemporary standards: While reliable, this movement debuted in 1987. Competitors like the Omega Seamaster (Co-Axial) offer superior shock resistance and longer power reserves. The 3135’s balance cock lacks modern anti-magnetic shielding found in contemporary movements.
• 48mm lug-to-lug measures small by modern expectations: Wrist presence feels diminished compared to 42-44mm modern sport watches. Buyers accustomed to current trends may find the proportions underwhelming or overly conservative. This is intentional design philosophy but represents a genuine limitation for some wearers.
• Availability and pricing make entry impractical: Authorized dealers maintain 24-36 month waiting lists, forcing buyers toward secondary markets where prices exceed retail by 30-50%. At current levels ($12,500-$14,000), the 114060 competes on heritage and brand prestige rather than objective value proposition. A used Omega Seamaster Professional or Tudor Black Bay offers superior specs at lower cost.
• Sapphire crown lacks aesthetic refinement: Unlike some vintage Submariners, the 114060’s crown is stainless steel rather than the tool steel applied to earlier references. This is functionally identical but lacks the visual distinction of premium sports instruments.
• No modern amenities: The watch lacks lume plots on hands (pre-applied lume only on indices), bracelet end links that don’t rattle, and the ceramic bezels found on contemporary references—though whether these constitute “drawbacks” depends on philosophical attachment to analog simplicity.

How It Compares

At the $12,000-$14,000 secondary market range, the 114060 competes against several compelling alternatives. The Omega Seamaster Professional 300M (Co-Axial) ($7,200 retail, $8,500-$10,000 used) offers superior water resistance (300m identical), exceptional movement reliability via Co-Axial