Rare Rolex Submariner ‘Hulk’ and FP Journe Tourbillon Souverain Showcased

If you’ve spent any serious time in a watch forum or auction house, you’ve heard the mythology around the Rolex Submariner “Hulk”—and the FP Journe Tourbillon Souverain sits at the absolute opposite end of the horological spectrum. After 15 years covering everything from $200 quartz divers to six-figure independent watchmaking, I can tell you that comparing these two pieces is less about which is “better” and more about understanding what each represents: one is a discontinued sports icon that’s become a speculative asset, the other is a masterclass in mechanical transparency and finishing that few collectors ever experience firsthand.

Overview

The Rolex Submariner “Hulk” (reference 116610LV) represents one of modern horology’s most polarizing success stories. Introduced in 2010, this 40mm stainless steel diver combined Rolex’s legendary reliability with an unconventional green dial and matching ceramic bezel—a bold departure from the traditional black that had defined the Submariner since 1953. When Rolex discontinued the model in 2020 without fanfare, demand exploded. Today, the Hulk commands premiums of 60-100% over original retail on the secondary market, transforming what was once a sports watch into a collector’s speculative vehicle.

The FP Journe Tourbillon Souverain, meanwhile, operates in an entirely different universe. François-Paul Journe’s Geneva-based manufacture produces approximately 3,000 watches annually—hand-finished to standards that would make most Swiss manufactures weep. The Souverain tourbillon represents independent watchmaking at its most refined: a visible tourbillon (not hidden under a dial), côtes de Genève finishing on the main plate, and a power reserve of 80 hours from a contemporary automatic caliber. Where the Hulk appeals to sports watch traditionalists and collectors chasing discontinued references, the Souverain targets connoisseurs who appreciate finishing as much as function.

Key Specifications

• Movement (Rolex Hulk): Rolex Caliber 3135, in-house self-winding mechanical movement with date window
• Movement (FP Journe Souverain): FP Journe Caliber 1300, in-house self-winding chronometer-grade mechanical movement with tourbillon
• Case Size (Rolex): 40mm diameter, approximately 13mm thickness
• Case Size (FP Journe): 40mm diameter, approximately 11.5mm thickness
• Water Resistance (Rolex): 300 meters (1,000 feet), helium escape valve for saturation diving
• Water Resistance (FP Journe): 50 meters (splash resistance only, not a sports tool)
• Crystal (Rolex): Scratch-resistant sapphire with anti-reflective coating
• Crystal (FP Journe): Sapphire with anti-reflective coating; exhibition caseback reveals tourbillon
• Case Material (Rolex): 904L stainless steel, polished and brushed finishing
• Case Material (FP Journe): 18K white or yellow gold, polished and perlage finishing
• Strap/Bracelet (Rolex): Oyster stainless steel bracelet with solid end links and Glidelock clasp (micro-adjustable)
• Strap/Bracelet (FP Journe): Alligator leather strap with 18K gold folding clasp, or Oyster bracelet option
• Lug Width (Rolex): 20mm
• Lug Width (FP Journe): 20mm
• Power Reserve (Rolex): Approximately 48 hours
• Power Reserve (FP Journe): Approximately 80 hours

Hands-On Impressions

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Handling a Rolex Submariner Hulk today feels markedly different than it did in 2015, when it was simply a discontinued reference gathering dust in private collections. The 904L stainless steel case feels impressively dense—considerably heavier than standard 316L steel—and the polished/brushed finishing has aged beautifully on well-worn examples, developing a patina that speaks to actual use. The green ceramic bezel insert remains virtually scratch-proof, a genuine technical achievement that hasn’t aged poorly. However, I must be honest: the Caliber 3135 movement inside feels dated by 2024 standards. No chronograph, no GMT, no tourbillon—just straightforward accuracy and reliability. The bracelet’s Glidelock system works flawlessly, though the clasp can feel slightly hollow compared to competitors in this price tier.

The FP Journe Tourbillon Souverain is an entirely different animal on the wrist. At 11.5mm, it wears considerably slimmer than the Rolex’s 13mm profile. The moment you open the display caseback, you understand the price premium: the bridges showcase extensive côtes de Genève (Genevan stripes) finishing, perlage work on the main plate, and jeweled pallet forks that seem almost architectural in their precision. The tourbillon itself—visible through both caseback and dial aperture—rotates with mechanical poetry, a constant visual reminder of mechanical complexity. The 80-hour power reserve means you can safely leave it on your nightstand Friday evening and pick it up Monday morning without worry. Build quality borders on obsessive; I’ve examined perhaps 20 FP Journes over my career, and not one showed a trace of finishing compromise.

Pros & Cons

Pros (Rolex Submariner Hulk):
• Iconic discontinued reference with proven long-term collector demand and secondary market liquidity
• Exceptional tool watch functionality: 300m water resistance, helium escape valve, unidirectional bezel, and luminous hands make it genuinely viable for recreational and technical diving
• Stainless steel construction is durable, rust-resistant (904L), and considerably more affordable than precious metals; case and bracelet finish quality from Rolex’s manufacturing remains industry-leading
• The green dial/bezel combination is genuinely distinctive and recognizable, offering personality within Rolex’s typically conservative design language
• Robust 48-hour power reserve keeps the movement running through normal weekend wear patterns

Cons (Rolex Submariner Hulk):
• Secondary market pricing has divorced the watch from its original value proposition: You’re now paying $14,000-16,000 for a watch that retailed for $5,900 in 2020, largely due to scarcity speculation rather than genuine technical advancement. The Caliber 3135 lacks the innovation present in competitors like Tudor or even Omega’s newer movements.
• The Caliber 3135 is technically outdated: No chronograph functionality, no GMT, no innovative finishing on the movement itself. It’s a reliable workhorse, but by independent watchmaking standards (or even modern integrated chronograph movements), it’s conservative to the point of stagnation.
• Green dial doesn’t appeal universally: While the Hulk’s aesthetic boldness attracted a passionate subset of collectors, many find the color garish or dated. Resale potential is entirely dependent on continued collector enthusiasm for this specific reference.
• Bracelet taper and endlinks lack the refinement of competitors: The solid end links are positive for durability, but the transition from lug to bracelet doesn’t match the polished craftsmanship of A. Lange & Söhne or Omega’s upper-tier sports watches.
• 300m water resistance is adequate but not exceptional: Omega’s Seamaster and Tudor’s Black Bay both achieve the same depth rating in more affordable packages. For actual diving use, the Submariner’s advantage has narrowed considerably since its 2010 introduction.

Pros (FP Journe Tourbillon Souverain):
• Finishing quality is genuinely transcendent: The Caliber 1300 movement showcases côtes de Genève, perlage, jeweled components, and hand-finishing standards that justify the $150,000+ price tag. Each watch is essentially hand-assembled by dedicated watchmakers, not industrial production lines.
• The visible tourb

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